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All patterns are written assuming that the reader has a basic understanding of crochet and amigurumi, IE: working in rounds, sc increase and decrease, basic understanding of construction of the parts.

Thursday, August 30, 2012

Enderman Plush




Well,  I finally got it done.  LOL.   Actually,  I had the doll done for quite a while,  but while moving things around and 'decluttering' my work room,  I put my notebook in a *safe* place while everything was topsy-turvy.   Of course,  I promptly forgot where I put it!   I finally found it and now I've got the pattern ready.

This pattern is a bit more complicated than some.  Not so much in the crochet,  but in the construction.   Those of you who have done the ChainChomp pattern,  will be familiar with creating a 'cube' form in crochet and this will be very familiar to you.

I do suggest reading through the ENTIRE pattern  (particularly the notes in the various sections)  to help you see how it will work out.   Take it all one step at a time and hopefully it will go easily for you.

The 'armature'  for the body and head are really fairly simple  (easier done than written out in detail  LOL).   But if you have any problems or questions,  please do feel free to post here or on the facebook page and I'll do my very best to find a different way to explain for you.

At the moment,  I have only the one picture of him.  Well honestly,  there aren't many other ways to view him...the back and sides are pretty much identical to the front...without the eyes.

All that said,  here's the pattern.  Have fun and again,  if you have problems,  ask and I'll do my best to clarify for you :D



MATERIALS:

WW yarn in black (one full 7 oz skein for most people) and a tiny amount of purple yarn (or purple felt) for the eyes.
Fiberfill
Plastic or cardboard (see the notes)
Tapestry Needle
Some kind of small weights (I used smooth riverstones in sizes that fit – you'll need one for each leg)

NOTES:

Please read through the entire pattern before you begin. It's helpful to understand how the pattern will come together before you begin, so you will understand the individual steps. I have tried to explain as clearly as I can all the various steps.

While it's not necessary, you will probably want to use plastic or cardboard to give your shelf-sitter a more defined 'cube' shape. You can use recycled plastic from pastry boxes or anything else that is the right size, or you can use plastic canvas sheets cut to size if you happen to have those. Cardboard will also work but remember, if you use cardboard, your shelf sitter won't be washable (you'll have to clean him with a damp rag and be careful with spills around him) but if he's up on a shelf then he should be ok.

Gauge isn't very important for this project, as long as your yarn, hook and tension produce a stitch that's firm, even and doesn't allow the stuffing to show through too much (with black yarn, you going to have SOME show-through, that cannot be helped mostly due to the contrast of the white filler against the dark yarn)

Cube is worked in one piece. It's a little different than working a ball in rounds, the increases and decreases are different, but similar enough that it should be possible even for beginners with a little patience. I recommend joining your rounds to keep your cube in shape. Using continuous rounds is likely going to cause your cube to become oddly shaped.

First sc of every round is ALWAYS placed in the same sc as the joining slip stitch from previous round.

SPECIAL STITCH:

dec3 - Decrease 3. Insert hook into first sc and draw up loop, insert hook into next sc and draw up a loop, insert hook into third sc and draw up a loop. YO and draw yarn through ALL loops on hook.

BODY:

NOTE: After you have completed the bottom 'square' of your cube (Rnd 6) use that square to trace a square on your plastic or cardboard (if you are using this option) and cut it out a little larger than your trace lines. After you have completed several of the following even rounds (Rnds 7-28) fit that piece of plastic or cardboard into the bottom if you need to trim it down to fit SNUGLY into the bottom (giving it a more square shape). Once you're happy with it, trace that piece and cut one more (for the top).

After you have completed round 28, use the 'side' of your elongated cube to trace onto plastic or cardboard an outline. Again cut it out slightly larger that your trace, fit this piece in and if necessary trim to fit snugly into one side. Once you're comfortable with the size, use that piece to trace and cut three more 'side' pieces. Tape these pieces together to form a 'square tube' Tape the bottom piece to this tube and fit into the crochet piece and make any adjustments you need to make it fit snugly and better define the overall shape.

Stuff evenly and firmly inside of your plastic or cardboard 'tube' while the tube is inside of your crochet piece. Don't overstuff it but do make sure it's even and 'firm'. Tape the top square down to complete the 'inside' of your body piece.

You will be working 'over' this structure as you decrease the body crochet piece. It may seem awkward and difficult at first, but the more rows you complete the easier it will become. Take your time and it will come together for you.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring, join with sl stitch and chain 1 (8)
Rnd 2. Sc in same sc as join, 3 sc in next sc (corner), * sc in next sc, 3 sc in next * repeat * to * twice more. Join with sl st and chain 1 (16)
Rnd 3: Sc in first 2 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (24)
Rnd 4: Sc in first 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (32)
Rnd 5: Sc in first 4 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 3 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (40)
Rnd 6: Sc in first 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 4 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (48)
Rnd 7-28: sc in each sc around, join with slip stitch and chain 1 (48)
Rnd 29: Sc in first 5 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 9 sc, dec3, sc in next 9 sc, dec3, sc in next 9 sc, dec3, sc in last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (40)
Rnd 30: Sc in first 4 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 7 sc, dec3, sc in next 7 sc, dec3, sc in next 7 sc, dec3, sc in last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (32)
Rnd 31: Sc in first 3 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (24)
Rnd 32: Sc in first 2 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in last sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (16)
Rnd 33: Sc in first sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next sc, dec3, sc in next sc, dec3, sc in next sc, dec3. Join with sl st to first sc (8)
F/O leaving a tail. Weave that tail through the last 8 sc and tug gently to close the small opening.  Secure and weave in loose end.

HEAD:

NOTE: Follow the same general instructions as for body for creating your plastic/cardboard pieces. The sizes will be a little different, but the procedure is the same.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring, join with sl stitch and chain 1 (8)
Rnd 2. Sc in same sc as join, 3 sc in next sc (corner), * sc in next sc, 3 sc in next * repeat * to * twice more. Join with sl st and chain 1 (16)
Rnd 3: Sc in first 2 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (24)
Rnd 4: Sc in first 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (32)
Rnd 5: Sc in first 4 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 3 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (40)
Rnd 6: Sc in first 5 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 4 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (48)
Rnd 7: Sc in first 6 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 5 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (56)
Rnd 8: Sc in first 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 13 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 13 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 13 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 6 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (64)
Rnd 9: Sc in first 8 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 15 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 15 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 15 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last 7 sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (72)
Rnd 10-28: sc in each sc around (72)
Rnd 29: Sc in first 8 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 15 sc, dec3, sc in next 15 sc, dec3, sc in next 15 sc, dec3, sc in last 7 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (64)
Rnd 30: Sc in first 7 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 13 sc, dec3, sc in next 13 sc, dec3, sc in next 13 sc, dec3, sc in last 6 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (56)
Rnd 31: Sc in first 6 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 11 sc, dec3, sc in next 11 sc, dec3, sc in next 11 sc, dec3, sc in last 5 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (48)
Rnd 32: Sc in first 5 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 9 sc, dec3, sc in next 9 sc, dec3, sc in next 9 sc, dec3, sc in last 4 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (40)
Rnd 33: Sc in first 4 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 7 sc, dec3, sc in next 7 sc, dec3, sc in next 7 sc, dec3, sc in last 3 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (32)
Rnd 34: Sc in first 3 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (24)
Rnd 35: Sc in first 2 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in last sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (16)
Rnd 36: Sc in first sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next sc, dec3, sc in next sc, dec3, sc in next sc, dec3. Join with sl st to first sc (8)
F/O leaving a tail. Weave that tail through the last 8 sc and tug gently to close the small opening.  Secure and weave in loose end.

LEGS (make 2):

NOTE: I did not use any plastic or cardboard for the legs or arms. It's not required and I think the slightly 'rounded' look to the arms and legs is a bit more charming than the look I got with the more 'squared' look.

Stuff the legs as you progress. (beginning somewhere about rnd 9 or so) They are quite long and thin, and will become very difficult to stuff if you don't start as soon as you see enough room to begin adding your stuffing. As always, when stuffing, shape the piece as you go and don't 'over' stuff.

With the legs, add whatever weight material you have chosen early on (but make sure the weight material is 'surrounded' by stuffing material to keep the integrity of the overall appearance. Don't add TOO much weight or it will pull the doll off of the shelf when you sit it there.

LOWER LEG:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring, join with sl stitch and chain 1 (8)
Rnd 2. Sc in same sc as join, 3 sc in next sc (corner), * sc in next sc, 3 sc in next * repeat * to * twice more. Join with sl st and chain 1 (16)
Rnd 3: Sc in first 2 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (24)
Rnd 4-34: sc in each sc around (24)

At this point, add any stuffing to come to the top of opening. Flatten your opening and sc across the top (through both layers). You should have 12 sc across the top now.

Chain 1 and turn, and sc evenly across the row (12)

Now turn the work again to work a new row. Working in the FRONT LOOPS ONLY sc across to the end. Turn the work as if to work a new row (do not chain 1). You should see the unworked loops you just left are now in the front. Working across in these 'free' loops, sc across to the other end. Slip stitch the last sc to the first sc. You should now have 24 sc in two 'rows'. This is the beginning of the upper leg. Don't fasten off.

UPPER LEG:

Rnd 1-10: sc in each sc around (24)
F/O and stuff upper leg portion.


ARMS (make 2):

Stuff the arms as you go along, like the legs, they are long and thin and need to be stuffed as you go. Be mindful of keeping the two arms approximately the same size as you stuff.

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring, join with sl stitch and chain 1 (8)
Rnd 2. Sc in same sc as join, 3 sc in next sc (corner), * sc in next sc, 3 sc in next * repeat * to * twice more. Join with sl st and chain 1 (16)
Rnd 3: Sc in first 2 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 3 sc in next sc, sc in last sc. Join with sl st and chain 1 (24)
Rnd 4-33: sc in each sc around.
Rnd 34: Sc in first 3 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in next 5 sc, dec3, sc in last 2 sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (24)
Rnd 35: Sc in first 2 sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in next 3 sc, dec3, sc in last sc. Join with sl st to first sc, chain 1 (16)
Rnd 36: Sc in first sc, dec3 (see notes), sc in next sc, dec3, sc in next sc, dec3, sc in next sc, dec3. Join with sl st to first sc (8)

Add any stuffing needed to finish the shape of the arm and then F/O leaving a tail. Weave the tail through the final 8 sc and tug gently to close. Secure and weave in end.

ASSEMBLY:

I recommend first pinning all the pieces together securely and 'testing' to see that you have everything positioned as you want it. Then sew the pieces together. Placement is rather simple for this doll. (See photos for placement)

For the eyes. Get your purple yarn, chain 8, DC in third chain from hook and each chain across.  F/O. (You may want to make the eyes larger or smaller, this is purely up to you :D) Alternately, you can cut two eyes from purple felt if you have it.

Sew the eyes to the face as shown.

Now ... sit your sitter on the shelf of your choice and and never look him directly in the eyes!

Enderman and MineCraft are copyright of their original creators.

This crochet pattern is an original pattern and is © by Linda Potts (August 2012). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint/repost it on your site. You may print and keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern. 


17 Comments:

Anonymous said...

I love your Mario Bros. patterns but my fave character is Princess Peach/Toadstool, but I'm not good at making patterns, sooooo could you please make me one (she typed hopefully)?

Adam Kaplan said...

Love this!

I work with AllFreeCrochet and have been trying to contact you. Please email me if there is a good way to reach you. Thanks!

akaplan@primecp.com

Anonymous said...

Hi I was wondering if you could do a moose

Rebekah Fair said...

Hi Wolfdreamer!

I have been looking at your patterns for about a year now and am impressed! I've also been crocheting for a year and have just recently started a blogspot for my crocheted items. I was wondering if you could take a look (if you have time, that is) to see how I'm doing.

My blogspot is called: greatgreycrochet.blogspot.com

Thank You!

Tomara Armstrong said...

This is awesome, and all of your patterns are amazing! I am going to have to get busy--my daughter wants all of your Pokemon.

:-)
~2

Crisdelin Prentice said...

Hi Wolfdreamer :)

I absolutely adore this plush! i'll have to add it to my list of projects which include most of your Pokemon patterns! this has given me inspiration as i've already made a creeper hat on bitsandbobblesblog.blogspot.co.uk and now i HAVE to make an enderman one!

Many thanks!

Jennifer Grillo Foster said...

I have just finished making all the pieces and noticed something. The decreasing rows on the arms have mistakes: row 34 says to sc 5 inbetween corner decreases while row 3 has only sc 3 inbetween the corner increases. Noticed it with the first arm but it didn't click until I was finishing the second. Made the adjustments on the second and refuse to fix the first (or tell Older Boy!) Otherwise, absolutely awesome pattern! Thank you so much for sharing it. Keeping an eye out for new ones while adding a few existing to my to-do list.

Vani said...


Wonderful blog & good post.Its really helpful for me, awaiting for more new post. Keep Blogging!

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onlinephduk said...

Thank you for giving a brief tutorial of this. It is such a neat little project. I am so cluttered as well that I lose track of my notebooks as well. So glad you found the pattern and were able to post this.


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OorowosoO said...

Hey Wolfdreamer! I don't know how else to contact you other than leaving a comment. I was wondering if I could request a few Pokemon patterns. I would like to request Alakazam, Blastoise, Crobat, Dragonite, Gengar and Gyrados. That's my boyfriend's pokemon team and I'd love to make them all for him. He adored the Umbreon by the way. :-) Thank you for sharing you talent with us!! God bless.

heidi said...

Thanks so much for the enderman pattern, I look forward to making this for my son at my daughter's request. Are you interested in pictures of the end result or do you have enough. Thanks again.

Yami Yuugi said...

What size hook did you use for this?

Teshia Amarantes said...

Hello. I was also wondering what size hook you used for Enderman as well? I also just have to say, I am a HUGE fan of yours! I love lookin to see what new you have made. You truly are talented and your work definitely reflects that. Hope to hear from you soon! Take Care.

Cynthia Bishop said...

For the Enderman crochet I found black polyester fiberfill on the internet!
I used a size "H" hook.
I used plastic needlepoint canvas for the shaping of the head and body and instead of taping it together, I used some yarn and a needle and tacked it to the inside corner of each side and bottom through the little squares in the plastic canvas. Worked better than tape.

Michelle Nguyen said...

Hi WolfDreamer! I've been looking for a pattern like this, its really great, and was wondering about the dimensions of this pattern. Like how large the head is and how long the arms are. Thanks!

WolfDreamer said...

Had to get one of my kids to get him down off the shelf to measure! Lol

Ok here's the numbers:

Full length - 20"
Head - 5.5" square
Arms - 8.5"
Legs - 11"

Your exact numbers will likely vary a little depending on the choice of yarn, hook and your individual tension when crocheting.

Hope thats what you needed :-)

tucker48 said...

does anyone know where I can get an Enderman Dragon pattern? That is what my grand-daughter wants.

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